The monsoon is the season most trekkers avoid, and for understandable reasons. From June to August, moist air sweeps in from the Bay of Bengal and drops heavy rain on the hills around Pokhara, one of the wettest places in Nepal. Clouds wrap the Mardi Himal ridge for days at a time, the forest trail turns muddy, and leeches wait on every damp leaf. And yet a small number of trekkers choose the monsoon deliberately, and many of them come back with memories no autumn trekker has.
This guide gives an honest assessment of trekking Mardi Himal in the monsoon: what the conditions are really like, the drawbacks and the surprising rewards, how to stay safe and comfortable, and how to decide whether it is right for you.
What the Monsoon Brings
The monsoon usually arrives in Nepal in early to mid-June and retreats in the second half of September, with July and August the wettest months. Rain falls frequently, often heavily, and it tends to be concentrated in the afternoons and at night, though some days are wet from morning to evening. Humidity is high, the lower hills are hot, and cloud often sits on the ridge for much of the day.
On the trail, this means wet, muddy and slippery paths, particularly in the forest; streams running across the trail; leeches in the damp vegetation below Low Camp; and limited visibility on the ridge. Roads to Kande and Siding can be affected by landslides. See our month-by-month weather guide.
The Drawbacks
- Unreliable views. The main draw of Mardi Himal is its mountain views, and in the monsoon these are often hidden.
- Rain and mud. Walking in rain is tiring, and wet trails are slippery, especially on descents.
- Leeches. Harmless but unpleasant, and very common in the lower forest.
- Road disruption. Landslides can delay drives to and from trailheads.
- Damp gear. Clothes and boots are hard to dry in humid lodges.
- Flight delays. Domestic flights between Kathmandu and Pokhara are more often delayed by weather.
The Surprising Rewards
- Empty trails. You may have the trail almost to yourself, and lodges are quiet.
- Lush forest. The rhododendron and oak forest is vividly green, dripping with moss and ferns.
- Wildflowers. The alpine meadows above the treeline burst with flowers in summer.
- Dramatic clouds. When the clouds do break, the views are often spectacular, with peaks appearing through swirling mist.
- Waterfalls. Streams and falls are at their fullest.
- Village life. Rice planting in the terraces around Kande and Siding is a sight in itself.
Monsoon Month by Month
June usually sees the monsoon arrive, often in the first half of the month. Early June can still bring some clear mornings, making it the best monsoon month for views. Read Mardi Himal in June.
July is typically the wettest month, with heavy rain, frequent cloud and abundant leeches. Read Mardi Himal in July.
August remains wet, though some years bring more breaks toward the end of the month. Wildflowers are at their best on the upper slopes. Read Mardi Himal in August.
Will You See the Mountains?
This is the big question. The honest answer is maybe. Many monsoon days bring no mountain views at all. But the monsoon is not constant rain; there are often breaks, especially in the early morning, and sometimes after heavy overnight rain the sky clears briefly, revealing freshly washed peaks. The chances improve if you spend more time on the ridge, so adding a buffer day at High Camp or Low Camp is the best strategy. See when the mountains are clear.
Dealing with Leeches
Leeches are the most talked-about monsoon nuisance. They live in damp vegetation in the forest below Low Camp and attach to ankles and legs. Bites are painless and harmless, though they bleed for a while because of an anticoagulant. To reduce encounters, tuck trousers into socks, wear leech socks, apply insect repellent to socks and boots, check your legs at rest stops, and carry salt to remove leeches. Do not pull them off forcefully. Read leeches on the Mardi Himal Trek.
Safety in the Monsoon
The main monsoon safety concerns are slippery trails, landslides on roads, and poor visibility on the exposed ridge. Walk carefully on wet stone and mud, use trekking poles, and take extra care on descents. Avoid travelling on mountain roads after heavy rain if landslides are reported. On the ridge, fog can hide the path, so stay close to your guide. Lightning is possible during thunderstorms. See slippery trails after rain and landslides and trail hazards.
What to Pack for the Monsoon
- Waterproof rain jacket and rain trousers
- Pack cover and dry bags for everything inside
- Quick-drying clothes; avoid cotton
- Waterproof boots and several pairs of socks
- Leech socks, insect repellent and salt
- A compact umbrella, surprisingly useful in steady rain
- Lightweight sandals for lodges
- A light down or synthetic jacket for cooler evenings at High Camp
See our monsoon packing list.
A Monsoon Day on the Trail
A typical monsoon day often starts better than you expect. You wake at Low Camp to grey light, but the rain that drummed on the roof overnight has stopped, and through a gap in the cloud you glimpse the upper slopes of Machapuchare, freshly washed and glowing. Twenty minutes later it has gone. After breakfast, you set off in light rain gear through a forest so green it almost glows, with water dripping from every branch and mist drifting between the trunks.
Around midday the rain returns, steady rather than heavy, and you stop at a lodge for a hot lunch while your rain jacket drips by the door. In the afternoon the cloud lifts slightly, and from the ridge you watch white mist pouring through the valleys below. By evening, with dry clothes on and a cup of ginger tea in hand, you are sharing the dining room with perhaps two or three other trekkers, and the lodge owner has time to talk. It is a very different experience from autumn, quieter and more intimate, with the mountains as an occasional reward rather than a constant backdrop.
Making the Most of Clear Windows
In the monsoon, clear views often come in short windows. To catch them, be ready early: the hour around sunrise is frequently the clearest part of the day, especially after heavy overnight rain. Check the sky from your lodge before breakfast, and if it is clear, head straight to the nearest viewpoint. Keep your camera handy while walking, because peaks can appear through the cloud for only a few minutes. And be willing to wait an extra night at High Camp or Low Camp for a better morning. Patience is the monsoon trekker's greatest asset.
Keeping Yourself and Your Gear Dry
Staying dry, or at least keeping dry clothes for the evening, makes monsoon trekking far more pleasant. Line your backpack and duffel with heavy-duty plastic bags or dry bags, since rain covers alone are not enough in a downpour. Pack your sleeping bag and evening clothes in separate waterproof bags. Walk in quick-drying layers and accept that they will get damp, but change into dry clothes as soon as you arrive. Stuff wet boots with newspaper if the lodge has any, and dry them near, not on, the stove if the owner allows. Keep phones and electronics in zip-lock bags. See how to dry wet gear on the trek.
Monsoon Photography
The monsoon offers a different kind of beauty for photographers. Mist in the forest creates layered, atmospheric images. Peaks emerging from cloud make dramatic compositions. The vivid greens of the forest and terraces, flowering meadows above the treeline, and rice planting in the villages all make rich subjects. Protect your camera with a rain cover, carry a microfibre cloth for lens drops, and keep silica gel in your camera bag. See our photography guide.
Is the Monsoon Good for Budget Trekkers?
The monsoon is the low season, so some hotels in Pokhara offer lower rates, and lodges on the trail are quiet. However, trek package prices usually do not change dramatically, since guide wages, permits and transport cost the same. The main budget advantage is availability: you can usually find rooms easily and travel on short notice. If cost is your main concern, weigh the savings against the reduced chance of views. See Mardi Himal on a backpacker budget.
If the Weather Is Too Bad
Occasionally, heavy rain or landslides make trekking unwise. In that case, your guide may suggest waiting a day in Pokhara, shortening the trek, or turning around early. Pokhara has plenty to do on wet days, from museums to lakeside cafés. Travel insurance with trip interruption cover is worth having in the monsoon. See things to do in Pokhara.
Is the Monsoon Worth It?
It depends on what you want. If your main goal is clear mountain views, and you have flexibility, choose autumn or spring instead. If the monsoon is your only chance to trek, or you value solitude, green landscapes and a different kind of experience, then yes, it can be worth it, as long as you go with realistic expectations and good rain gear. Many monsoon trekkers say the moments when the clouds part are more memorable precisely because they are rare.
Monsoon vs Other Seasons: A Quick Comparison
It helps to see how the monsoon compares with the other seasons on the things that matter most. For views, autumn is best, followed by winter and spring, with the monsoon a distant fourth. For crowds, the monsoon is the quietest season by far, with winter close behind. For comfort on the trail, spring and autumn lead, while the monsoon's rain and leeches make it the least comfortable. For greenery and flowers, the monsoon and spring stand out. For lodge availability and flexibility, the monsoon is the easiest season to trek at short notice. If you are choosing between seasons, weigh which of these matter most to you. See the best time for the Mardi Himal Trek.
Tips from Monsoon Trekkers
- Walk early. Mornings are usually drier and clearer than afternoons, so start soon after breakfast and aim to arrive at your lodge by early afternoon.
- Embrace the mist. The forest is at its most magical in cloud, so slow down and enjoy it rather than waiting for views.
- Protect your feet. Change into dry socks every evening and let your feet air out. Wet feet for days on end cause blisters and skin problems.
- Carry a light towel. A small quick-dry towel is useful for wiping off rain, mud and the occasional leech bite.
- Watch your step on stone. Wet stone steps are slippery; place your feet deliberately and use your poles.
- Tell someone your plans. With fewer trekkers on the trail, make sure your agency and someone at home know your itinerary and expected return date.
- Keep your sense of humour. Rain, mud and leeches are part of the story, and the lodges will be warm and welcoming at the end of the day.
Monsoon Culture: Rice Planting and Festivals
The monsoon is a busy, important time in the villages around Mardi Himal. Terraced fields near Kande and Siding are flooded and planted with rice, often by groups of neighbours working together and sometimes singing as they go. In late June, many communities celebrate the start of the planting season. It is a good time to see rural life at its most active. If you pass villages during planting, stop and watch from the path, and always ask before taking photos. Read farming seasons and village life.
Plan a Monsoon Trek
A monsoon trek works best with a flexible itinerary. Our monsoon itinerary includes a buffer day for weather. The 5-day trek from Pokhara is a good base, and we can add days as needed. Our guides know how to time walking around the rain and where to find shelter. Contact us to discuss a monsoon trek.