Water is something most trekkers take for granted until they find themselves halfway up a steep forest trail with an empty bottle. On the Mardi Himal Trek, where the air grows thinner and drier as you climb, staying well hydrated is one of the most important things you can do, both for your energy and for reducing the risk of altitude sickness. The good news is that water is available at every lodge stop and in many streams along the lower trail. The challenge is that sources become fewer as you climb, the water must always be treated, and on the upper ridge it can freeze.
This guide explains where to find water on each section of the trek, how much to carry, how to make it safe, and how to avoid adding to the plastic waste problem in the mountains. For health advice, see hydration on Mardi Himal and safe drinking water.
Water Along the Trail at a Glance
| Section | Water sources | Carry |
|---|---|---|
| Kande to Australian Camp | Shops at Kande, lodges at Australian Camp | 1–1.5 liters |
| Australian Camp to Pitam Deurali | Lodges at Pothana and Pitam Deurali | 1–1.5 liters |
| Pitam Deurali to Forest Camp | Occasional streams, few lodges in between | 1.5–2 liters |
| Forest Camp to Low Camp | Rest Camp lodges, occasional streams | 1.5 liters |
| Low Camp to High Camp | Badal Danda lodges; no streams on the ridge | 1.5 liters |
| High Camp to Base Camp and back | None | At least 1 liter, ideally hot |
| Low Camp to Siding | Occasional streams, seasonal tea stalls | 1.5–2 liters |
How Much Water Do You Need?
At altitude, your body loses water faster than at home. The air is dry, you breathe faster and deeper, and you sweat on the climbs, often without noticing because the air is cool. Most trekkers should aim to drink around three to four liters a day, including tea, soup and other drinks. A good rule of thumb is to check the color of your urine: pale yellow is good, dark yellow means you need to drink more. Drinking regularly, a few sips every 15 to 20 minutes, is better than drinking a lot at once. See hydration on Mardi Himal.
Where Lodge Water Comes From
Lodges on the Mardi Himal Trek get their water from springs and streams above the settlement, piped down through plastic hoses to taps and storage tanks. This water is used for cooking, washing and toilets, and it is not safe to drink untreated, as it may be contaminated by livestock, wildlife or human activity upstream. Most lodges sell boiled or filtered water, and some offer refill stations where you can fill your bottle for a small fee. Prices increase with altitude, as fuel for boiling is carried up by porters. See tea house prices.
Kande to Pitam Deurali
The first day is well supplied. You can buy water at shops in Kande before setting off, and there are lodges and tea stalls at Australian Camp, Pothana and Pitam Deurali, each an hour or two apart. Carry a liter or so and refill at each stop. The climb from Kande to Australian Camp is steep and often warm, so drink regularly. See Kande to Pitam Deurali.
Pitam Deurali to Forest Camp
This is the longest section between lodges on the lower trek, climbing through forest for five to six hours. There may be a seasonal tea stall along the way, and you will cross a few small streams, but you should not rely on them. Fill up with at least one and a half to two liters at Pitam Deurali, and carry water treatment in case you need to refill from a stream. In the dry season, some streams dry up. See Pitam Deurali to Forest Camp.
Forest Camp to Low Camp
The trail from Forest Camp to Low Camp passes Rest Camp, a small lodge stop roughly halfway, where you can buy drinks and refill. There are also occasional streams in the forest. Carry about one and a half liters. At Low Camp, lodges have water and sell boiled or filtered water. See Forest Camp to Low Camp and Rest Camp.
Low Camp to High Camp
Above Low Camp, the trail follows the open ridge, and there are no streams. The only water is at the lodges at Badal Danda and High Camp. Carry about one and a half liters from Low Camp and refill at Badal Danda if needed. At High Camp, water is scarcer than lower down, and in winter pipes can freeze, so lodges may melt snow or carry water from further away. Be economical with water here. See Low Camp to High Camp.
The Summit Hike
There is no water between High Camp and Base Camp, so you must carry everything you need for the five to seven hour round trip. At least one liter per person is essential. Hot water in an insulated bottle is ideal, as it will not freeze and a warm drink at the viewpoint is very welcome. Keep your bottle inside your pack or jacket rather than in a side pocket, where it can freeze in the pre-dawn cold. Ask your lodge the night before to fill your bottles with hot water in the morning. See High Camp to Base Camp.
Low Camp to Siding
On the descent to Siding, there are a few streams in the forest and possibly a seasonal tea stall, but facilities are limited. Carry one and a half to two liters from Low Camp, and treat any stream water. Once you reach the farmland and Siding, water is available at tea houses. See Low Camp to Siding.
Treating Water
All tap and stream water on the trek should be treated before drinking. The main options are:
- Purification tablets or drops: Lightweight, cheap and effective against most pathogens. They take 30 minutes to several hours to work, depending on the product and water temperature, and some leave a taste.
- Water filters: Squeeze or pump filters remove bacteria and protozoa quickly. Most do not remove viruses, so combine them with tablets for full protection. Filters can freeze and crack in cold weather, so keep them warm at night.
- UV purifiers: Pens or bottles that use ultraviolet light to kill pathogens in a minute or two. They need batteries or charging and work best in clear water.
- Boiling: The most reliable method. Buying boiled water from lodges is common and convenient, though it uses fuel.
Many trekkers combine a filter or UV purifier with a supply of tablets as a backup. See safe drinking water on Mardi Himal and avoiding stomach problems.
Bottles and Bladders
Carry at least two one-liter bottles, or a combination of a bottle and a hydration bladder. Bottles are easy to refill, can hold hot water, and double as hot water bottles at night in your sleeping bag. Hydration bladders are convenient for sipping while walking, but their tubes can freeze on the upper ridge in cold weather. An insulated bottle is very useful for the summit hike. See water bottles vs hydration bladders.
Avoiding Plastic Waste
Plastic bottles are a major source of waste in the Himalaya. Once carried up, empty bottles are hard to dispose of: they are burned, dumped or carried down by porters. Buying bottled water on the trek adds to this problem and is also more expensive than refilling. Instead, carry reusable bottles and refill them with treated tap water or boiled water from lodges. It saves money and helps keep the trail clean. See plastic-free trekking and responsible trekking.
Water in Winter
In winter, from December to February, water sources on the upper trail can freeze. Pipes to lodges at High Camp and Badal Danda may freeze overnight, and streams on the lower trail may slow to a trickle. Lodges often melt snow or carry water from lower sources. Keep your bottles inside your sleeping bag at night to stop them freezing, and ask for hot water in the morning. Filters can crack if the water inside them freezes, so keep them in your sleeping bag too. See Mardi Himal in winter.
Water in the Monsoon
In the monsoon, from June to August, water is plentiful, with streams flowing across the trail and rain falling most days. However, heavy rain can wash contaminants into water sources, making treatment even more important. Muddy water may clog filters and reduce the effectiveness of UV purifiers, so let sediment settle or pre-filter it through a cloth before treating. See Mardi Himal in the monsoon.
Other Drinks
Water is not the only way to stay hydrated. Tea, particularly ginger, lemon and honey tea, is a popular choice on the trail and counts toward your fluid intake. Soups, especially garlic soup, are a trekking favorite and good for hydration. Oral rehydration salts or electrolyte tablets are useful on long, hot days or if you have an upset stomach. Coffee and alcohol are best limited at altitude, as both can increase dehydration. See coffee and tea on Mardi Himal and alcohol and altitude.
Water and Altitude Sickness
Staying hydrated does not prevent altitude sickness on its own, but dehydration makes its symptoms worse and harder to tell apart. A headache at High Camp might be the first sign of acute mountain sickness, or it might simply be the result of not drinking enough on the long climb from Low Camp. Drinking well throughout the day, and especially in the afternoon after you arrive at a new altitude, helps your body cope and makes it easier for you and your guide to judge how you are really feeling. That said, drinking excessive amounts of water will not cure altitude sickness, and forcing down large volumes can cause its own problems. Aim for steady, regular drinking, not huge quantities. See our altitude sickness guide and acclimatization on Mardi Himal.
Water for Washing and Hygiene
Drinking water is not the only concern. On the upper ridge, lodges have limited water for washing, and hot showers may be unavailable or cost extra, especially at High Camp. Carry hand sanitizer and use it before eating and after using the toilet, as poor hand hygiene is one of the main causes of stomach problems on treks. Biodegradable wet wipes are useful for a quick wash when showers are not possible, but pack them out rather than leaving them in toilets or on the trail. Never wash dishes, clothes or yourself directly in streams, as soap and food waste pollute water that people and animals downstream rely on. See toilets, showers and washing and leave no trace.
A Sample Day of Drinking
To give an idea of how it adds up, here is how a typical trekker might reach three to four liters on a day such as Forest Camp to High Camp. Start with two cups of tea at breakfast and fill two one-liter bottles. Sip steadily on the climb to Low Camp, and refill there. Have a bowl of soup and a cup of tea at lunch. Refill again at Badal Danda if needed. On arrival at High Camp, have a hot drink straight away, then another during the afternoon, soup with dinner and a final cup of tea in the evening. Fill your bottles with hot water before bed to use as a hot water bottle and to drink in the morning. It sounds like a lot, but spread across the day it comes naturally. See a typical day on the trek.
Signs of Dehydration
- Dark yellow urine or urinating less often
- Headache, which can be confused with altitude sickness
- Dizziness or light-headedness
- Fatigue and low energy
- Dry mouth and lips
- Muscle cramps
If you notice these signs, drink water, rest and eat something salty. If symptoms do not improve, tell your guide. See headaches on Mardi Himal.
Water Tips
- Carry at least two liters of capacity and a water treatment method.
- Refill at every lodge stop, especially before long sections.
- Fill up fully at Pitam Deurali, Low Camp and High Camp.
- Take hot water in an insulated bottle for the summit hike.
- Keep bottles and filters warm at night in cold weather.
- Avoid buying plastic bottles.
- Drink little and often, and check your urine color.
Trek Mardi Himal with Us
On our treks, your guide knows every refill point and will make sure you fill up before long sections and the summit hike. See the 5-day Mardi Himal Trek from Pokhara, the 9-day trek from Kathmandu or the 3-day Short Mardi Himal Trek, and contact us to book.