Ask how to start the Mardi Himal Trek and you will usually hear one name: Kande. It is the most common trailhead, a roadside stop on the highway west of Pokhara with a direct trail up to Australian Camp. But look at a map and you will see another option a little closer to the city: Phedi, the traditional start for walks to Dhampus and beyond. Both routes join at Pothana before Pitam Deurali, and from there the trek to Mardi Himal Base Camp is the same. The difference lies in that first day, and it is worth understanding before you choose.
This guide compares Phedi and Kande in detail: how to get there, the first climb, the villages and views along the way, crowds, altitude and which trailhead suits which itinerary. For the Dhampus route in depth, see starting Mardi Himal from Dhampus, and for Kande, the Kande trailhead guide.
The Two Trailheads at a Glance
| Kande | Phedi | |
|---|---|---|
| Approximate altitude | About 1,770 m | About 1,130 m |
| Drive from Pokhara | 1–1.5 hours | 45–60 minutes |
| First stop | Australian Camp (about 2,060 m) | Dhampus (about 1,650 m) |
| Time to Pothana | About 2–2.5 hours | About 4–4.5 hours |
| Total climb to Pothana | Roughly 300 m up, with a short descent | Roughly 850 m up |
| Village character | Limited on the approach | Strong, through Dhampus |
| Crowds | The busiest start in peak season | Quieter |
| Best for | Most itineraries, short treks, speed | Culture, longer or relaxed itineraries |
Where Both Trailheads Are
Phedi and Kande both lie on the Pokhara to Baglung highway, the main road that runs west from Pokhara toward Nayapul and the Kali Gandaki valley. Leaving the city, the road crosses the valley floor and climbs gradually. Phedi, whose name simply means "foot of the hill," is a small settlement at the bottom of the ridge that rises to Dhampus. Further along, the road climbs over the pass near Naudanda and continues to Kande, a cluster of shops and tea houses higher up. From each, a trail climbs north toward the forested ridge that leads to Pothana. See transport from Pokhara to the trailheads and Pokhara to Mardi Himal door to door.
Starting at Kande
From Kande, a stone-paved trail climbs steeply through fields and forest to Australian Camp, gaining about 300 meters in an hour to an hour and a half. It is a stiff but short climb, and it is a good introduction to Nepali trails. Australian Camp sits on a broad grassy ridge with a handful of lodges and one of the best mountain panoramas of the lower trek, looking straight at Machapuchare, Annapurna South and Hiunchuli on clear mornings. From there, the trail descends gently through forest to Pothana, about 45 minutes to an hour away, where you join the Dhampus trail. See Australian Camp and Kande to Pitam Deurali.
The Kande start is efficient. It begins higher, so the total climb to Pothana is smaller, and it gets you onto the main trail quickly. For that reason, it is the default start on most Mardi Himal itineraries, including ours. The trade-off is that it is busier in peak season and offers less village life on the way.
Starting at Phedi
From Phedi, the trail climbs a long, steep stone staircase through forest and terraced fields to Dhampus, gaining about 500 meters in one to one and a half hours. It is harder than the Kande climb, and it is best tackled early in the day, before the heat builds. Dhampus is a large and long-established village strung along a ridge, with farmhouses, lodges, homestays and superb views of the Annapurna range. From Dhampus, the trail climbs gradually through oak and rhododendron forest to Pothana, about two and a half to three hours away, where it joins the Kande route.
The Phedi start is longer and involves more climbing, but it is richer in culture and quieter. It also gives you the option of driving straight to Dhampus, skipping the staircase, or of spending a night in the village. See villages around Mardi Himal and Pothana village.
Comparing the First Day
| Section | Via Kande | Via Phedi and Dhampus |
|---|---|---|
| Pokhara to trailhead | 1–1.5 hours by road | 45–60 minutes by road |
| Trailhead to first stop | Kande to Australian Camp, 1–1.5 hours | Phedi to Dhampus, 1–1.5 hours |
| First stop to Pothana | 45 minutes to 1 hour | 2.5–3 hours |
| Pothana to Pitam Deurali | 1–1.5 hours | 1–1.5 hours |
| Total walking to Pitam Deurali | About 3–4 hours | About 5–6 hours |
On a standard itinerary, the Kande start makes for a relaxed first day, arriving at Pitam Deurali in the early afternoon. The Phedi start makes a full day, though driving to Dhampus shortens it considerably. See Pitam Deurali.
Views on Day One
Both routes offer excellent views on clear days. From Kande, the highlight is Australian Camp, where the grassy ridge looks directly at Machapuchare and the Annapurna South massif, a classic viewpoint often visited on its own as a short overnight trek from Pokhara. From Phedi, the highlight is Dhampus, which has a wide view of the range from its long ridge, particularly at sunrise and sunset. If you stay a night at either Australian Camp or Dhampus, you get both sunset and sunrise, which is a lovely way to begin. See the mountains you see on the trek.
Village Life and Culture
If experiencing village life is important to you, Phedi and Dhampus have the edge. Dhampus is a real, working village where trekking is only part of daily life, with farmers in the fields, children heading to school, and homes that welcome guests. The Kande route, by contrast, passes mainly through forest and lodge settlements until Pothana, which is a small trekking stop rather than a traditional village. Both routes pass through the same small settlements after Pothana. See Gurung culture on the trek and homestays near Mardi Himal.
Crowds and Atmosphere
In the peak months of October, November, March and April, the trail from Kande to Australian Camp can be busy, with trekkers heading to Mardi Himal, day hikers visiting Australian Camp and groups bound for the Annapurna Base Camp trail via Landruk. The Dhampus route is usually quieter, with fewer groups and more local traffic. Once the two routes join at Pothana, the trail carries everyone to Pitam Deurali, and the Mardi Himal trail thins out after that, as many groups continue toward Landruk. See is Mardi Himal crowded?
Altitude and Acclimatization
Neither trailhead poses any altitude risk on the first day, since both stay well below 2,500 meters. The main difference is effort: Phedi starts over 600 meters lower than Kande, so you climb more on day one. For most trekkers, this is simply extra exercise rather than an altitude concern. The real acclimatization challenge on Mardi Himal comes higher up, between Low Camp and High Camp, and it is the same whichever trailhead you choose. See acclimatization on Mardi Himal.
Which Itineraries Use Which Trailhead?
Our standard itineraries start at Kande, because it is the most efficient way onto the ridge. That includes the 5-day trek from Pokhara, the 9-day trek from Kathmandu and the 7-day trek for direct flights to Pokhara. The 3-day Short Mardi Himal Trek uses the quickest possible routes, so it never starts from Phedi. On private and custom trips, we are happy to start from Phedi or Dhampus instead, and often recommend it for trekkers who want more culture or a slower start. See the custom itinerary guide.
Other Starting Points
Phedi and Kande are not the only ways in. Some short itineraries drive to Siding on the eastern side of the ridge and climb directly to Low Camp, a fast but steep approach that gains height quickly. Others drive partway up to Dhampus or even to Pothana on rough roads, shortening the first day. Occasionally, trekkers link in from the Annapurna Base Camp trail via Landruk. Each has its place, but for a classic loop with gradual acclimatization, Kande or Phedi remains the best choice. See trekking Mardi Himal in reverse and linking Mardi Himal with Landruk.
Trailhead Choice by Season
The season can tip the balance between the two starts. In autumn and spring, when the trails are busiest, the quieter Dhampus route is appealing, and the extra climbing from Phedi is comfortable in the mild temperatures. In the pre-monsoon heat of May and early June, the long staircase from Phedi can be hot and humid at midday, so the Kande start, which begins higher and cooler, is often the more pleasant choice, or you can drive straight to Dhampus. In the monsoon, both routes are muddy in the forest, and the shorter Kande approach means less time on slippery trail and fewer leeches. In winter, both are dry and pleasant, and a night in Dhampus or at Australian Camp is a lovely way to enjoy the crystal-clear mountain views that the season is known for. See the best time for the Mardi Himal Trek.
Families, Older Trekkers and Beginners
For families with children, older trekkers and complete beginners, the choice of trailhead matters more than for experienced hikers. The Kande start keeps the first day short and the total climb modest, which helps everyone settle in without arriving at Pitam Deurali exhausted. On the other hand, the option of driving to Dhampus and spending the night there gives a very gentle first day with plenty of time to rest, explore the village and enjoy the views. We generally avoid the full Phedi staircase for groups that are new to trekking, as it can be a discouraging start. Tell us about your group when you book, and we will recommend the most comfortable approach. See Mardi Himal with kids and Mardi Himal for beginners.
Transport and Logistics
Getting to either trailhead is straightforward. Private jeeps or cars from Pokhara take you directly to Kande or Phedi, and your guide will arrange the vehicle as part of the trek. Local buses toward Baglung also stop at both, though they are slower, crowded and less convenient with luggage. On the day, allow extra time for traffic leaving Pokhara, especially in the morning. If you are staying in Lakeside, most groups leave between 7 and 8 a.m. to start walking before the heat of the day. See bus travel in Nepal for trekkers.
Permits and Checkpoints
Both routes enter the Annapurna Conservation Area and require the same permits: the ACAP entry permit and, where required, a TIMS card, arranged in Pokhara or Kathmandu before the trek. Permits are checked at a checkpoint on the trail, typically at Pothana, where the two routes meet. Keep your permits and passport copy somewhere easy to reach. A licensed guide is required for foreign trekkers. See Mardi Himal permits and checkpoints on the trek.
How to Decide
- Choose Kande if you want the quickest, simplest start, are on a standard or short itinerary, or want to save energy for the ridge.
- Choose Phedi if you want village life, a quieter trail, a good workout on day one, or a night in Dhampus with sunrise views.
- Drive to Dhampus if you want the village atmosphere without the steep staircase from Phedi.
- Stay a night at Australian Camp or Dhampus if you have an extra day and want to ease into the trek.
There is no wrong answer. Both trailheads lead to the same forest, the same ridge and the same unforgettable sunrise at the top. See which Mardi Himal trek is right for you.
Tips for the First Day
- Leave Pokhara early to avoid heat on the first climb.
- Pace yourself slowly on the stone steps; the first hour sets the tone for the trek.
- Carry water, snacks, sunscreen and a rain jacket in your daypack.
- Keep permits and cash handy.
- Carry enough cash from Pokhara, as there are no ATMs on the trail.
- Enjoy the views; the first day is one of the most scenic of the lower trek.
See essential tips for first-time trekkers and pacing on the Mardi Himal Trek.
Start Your Mardi Himal Trek with Us
Whether you prefer the quick Kande start or the village route through Phedi and Dhampus, we can set up your trek to match. See the 5-day Mardi Himal Trek from Pokhara or the 9-day trek from Kathmandu, and contact us to choose your trailhead.