Ask trekkers what surprised them most about the Mardi Himal Trek, and many will not mention the mountains first. They will talk about the forest. Between Pitam Deurali and Low Camp, the trail climbs for more than a day through an old, dense forest of rhododendron, oak and magnolia, the trees twisted and draped in moss, ferns and hanging lichen. For most of the year it is green, shadowy and hushed. In spring, it catches fire. The rhododendrons burst into bloom in deep reds, pinks and whites, petals carpet the trail, and the whole hillside glows with color.
This guide explains where the rhododendron forests are on the trek, when they bloom, what else grows and lives there, and how to make the most of walking through them. For the walking days themselves, see Pitam Deurali to Forest Camp and Forest Camp to Low Camp.
The Forest at a Glance
| Section | Approximate altitude | Forest character |
|---|---|---|
| Australian Camp to Pitam Deurali | About 2,000–2,100 m | Mixed forest with rhododendron and oak, farmland in places |
| Pitam Deurali to Forest Camp | About 2,100–2,600 m | Dense rhododendron and oak forest; the classic section |
| Forest Camp to Rest Camp and Low Camp | About 2,600–2,970 m | Old, moss-draped rhododendron, oak and magnolia |
| Above Low Camp | About 3,000–3,300 m | Smaller, twisted trees giving way to dwarf rhododendron |
| Low Camp to Siding | About 2,970–1,750 m | Rhododendron and oak, then bamboo and farmland |
Nepal's National Flower
The most common rhododendron on the trek is the tree rhododendron, known in Nepal as lali gurans. It is Nepal's national flower, and it appears on the country's coat of arms. Unlike the garden shrubs familiar in many countries, it grows into a proper tree, often ten meters tall or more, with gnarled trunks, peeling bark and dense clusters of flowers at the ends of its branches. At lower altitudes, its flowers are usually a deep, glowing red. Higher up, pink and white forms become more common. See flora and fauna on the trail.
Several other rhododendron species grow along the route. Some bloom in different shades of pink, cream or white, and on the open ridge above Low Camp, dwarf rhododendrons form low, dense shrubs that flower later in the spring. The exact mix of species and colors varies with altitude, aspect and the year, which is part of the fun of walking through the forest.
When Do They Bloom?
The main flowering season runs from March to April. Because temperature falls with altitude, the bloom moves up the mountain as spring advances:
- Late February to mid-March: Lower forests near Australian Camp and Pitam Deurali start flowering, especially in warm years.
- Mid-March to mid-April: The peak bloom between Pitam Deurali, Forest Camp and Rest Camp, usually the most spectacular period.
- April to early May: Higher trees near Low Camp and on the ridge flower, and dwarf rhododendrons bloom above the tree line.
Timing shifts from year to year with the weather. A cold, late winter delays flowering, while a warm spring brings it forward. If flowers are your priority, late March to mid-April is usually the safest window, and walking up the mountain through the season means you are likely to find blooms at some altitude. See rhododendron season on Mardi Himal, Mardi Himal in March and Mardi Himal in April.
Pitam Deurali to Forest Camp
This is the classic rhododendron section of the trek. Leaving Pitam Deurali, the trail climbs north into the forest and stays there for most of the day. Tall rhododendrons and oaks close in overhead, the light turns green and dappled, and the trail winds uphill on roots, earth and stone steps. In spring, the path is often red with fallen petals, and you walk under a canopy of blossom. At other times of year, the forest is still beautiful, with moss-covered trunks, ferns, orchids on the branches and a deep sense of quiet. Allow five to six hours to Forest Camp. See Forest Camp.
Forest Camp to Low Camp
Above Forest Camp, the forest becomes older and wilder. The trees are more twisted, the moss thicker, and long strands of lichen hang from the branches like beards. Magnolias grow among the rhododendrons, with large pale flowers in spring. Mist often drifts through the trees, giving this section an almost enchanted feel. Rest Camp, a small lodge stop about halfway, is a good place for tea. As you approach Low Camp, the trees shrink, gaps in the canopy reveal glimpses of Machapuchare, and suddenly you emerge at the forest edge with the mountain directly ahead. See Rest Camp and Low Camp.
Above the Tree Line
On the ridge above Low Camp, the forest gives way to open grassland dotted with dwarf rhododendron and juniper. These low shrubs flower later than the forest trees, usually in April and May, adding splashes of pink and white to the slopes below High Camp. It is a very different landscape from the forest, open to the sky and the wind, with the peaks towering above. See the Mardi Himal ridge and ecosystems by altitude.
The Descent to Siding
If you descend from Low Camp to Siding at the end of the trek, you pass through another fine rhododendron forest on the eastern flank of the ridge. It is steep and often muddy, but in spring it is just as colorful as the western forest, and you may see different color forms as you descend. The forest gradually gives way to bamboo, mixed woodland and finally terraced fields around Siding. See Low Camp to Siding.
Other Plants in the Forest
- Oaks: Several oak species grow alongside the rhododendrons, their trunks often thick with moss and ferns.
- Magnolias: Large, pale pink or white flowers in early spring, often before the leaves appear.
- Orchids: Epiphytic orchids grow on the branches of older trees, flowering at various times of year.
- Ferns and mosses: Everywhere, especially in the damp, misty upper forest.
- Bamboo: Dense thickets in the lower and middle forest, particularly on the Siding side.
- Daphne: A shrub whose bark has traditionally been used to make Nepali lokta paper.
- Wildflowers: Primulas, violets and other small flowers bloom along the trail in spring.
See oak, bamboo and moss forests and orchids and wildflowers.
Wildlife in the Rhododendron Forest
The forest is one of the richest wildlife habitats on the trek. Spring, when the rhododendrons bloom, is also the peak season for birdsong. Look and listen for laughing thrushes, noisy and sociable, moving through the undergrowth; sunbirds, tiny and brilliantly colored, feeding on rhododendron nectar; minivets, barbets, yuhinas and woodpeckers in the canopy; and, near the forest edge, the Himalayan monal and kalij pheasant. Langur monkeys are sometimes seen swinging through the trees, and barking deer may be heard or glimpsed in the early morning. Walk quietly, pause often, and bring binoculars. See birdwatching on Mardi Himal, the Himalayan monal and langur monkeys.
Walking Conditions
The forest section is a steady, sometimes steep climb on natural trail: roots, earth, rocks and stone steps. It is not technical, but it can be tiring, and it is often muddy, especially after rain and in the monsoon. In spring, afternoon showers are common, so the trail may be wet by the time you reach Forest Camp. Wear good boots with a solid grip, use trekking poles, and take your time on slippery roots. In the monsoon, leeches are common in the lower and middle forest. See trail conditions, slippery trails after rain and leeches on Mardi Himal.
Photographing the Forest
Photographing a forest is harder than photographing mountains, but the rewards are great. The best light is soft and even, such as on a bright overcast day or in light mist, which brings out the colors of the flowers and the texture of the moss without harsh shadows. Look for close-ups of flower clusters, carpets of petals on the trail, moss-covered trunks, and trekkers walking under the canopy for scale. Mist drifting through the trees creates atmospheric images. Protect your camera from rain and moisture, and be patient in the dim light under the canopy. See the photography guide and the best month for photography.
Spring vs Autumn in the Forest
Spring and autumn are the two main trekking seasons, and the forest feels very different in each. In spring, the rhododendrons bloom, birdsong fills the air, and the forest is at its most colorful, though afternoons can be hazy and showery, and mountain views are less reliable. In autumn, the forest is green and fresh after the monsoon, the trails dry out, and the clearest mountain views of the year await on the ridge above, but there are no rhododendron flowers. If flowers are your priority, choose spring; if mountain views are, choose autumn. See Mardi Himal in spring and Mardi Himal in autumn.
The Forest in Monsoon and Winter
The forest is worth seeing outside the main seasons too. During the monsoon, from June to August, it is at its greenest and most alive. Moss swells with moisture, ferns unfurl, streams run across the trail, and mist hangs in the trees for much of the day. Fungi and small flowers appear on the forest floor. The trade-offs are rain, mud and leeches, and the mountain views above the forest are rarely clear, but for trekkers who love forests, the monsoon has a special atmosphere. In winter, from December to February, the forest is quiet, cold and often frosty in the mornings, with bare magnolia branches and the rhododendron buds already formed and waiting for spring. Light snow sometimes dusts the upper forest near Low Camp, and the trail is usually dry and firm. See Mardi Himal in the monsoon and Mardi Himal in winter.
Rhododendrons in Nepali Life
Rhododendrons are woven into Nepali culture as well as the landscape. As the national flower, lali gurans appears on the coat of arms, on stamps and in songs and poems about the hills. In some villages, the flowers are used to make a sweet, deep red juice or squash, and the petals are sometimes eaten in small quantities or used in traditional remedies. The hard, twisted wood has long been used for tools and fuel, which is one reason conservation of the forests matters. When you see a hillside of red blossom in spring, you are looking at a symbol that carries real meaning for the people who live below it. Ask your guide about local names and uses; many enjoy sharing what they know. See Gurung culture on the trek.
How the Forest Changes with Altitude
Walking from Pitam Deurali to the ridge above Low Camp, you climb nearly a thousand meters, and the forest changes steadily as you go. Lower down, trees are taller and straighter, with a greater mix of species and more undergrowth. As you climb, the air cools and the mist becomes more frequent, and the trees grow more gnarled, with thicker moss and more lichen. Near the top, the trees become shorter and wind-shaped before giving way altogether to open slopes. Noticing these changes makes the long forest days more interesting, and it helps explain why flowering times vary so much along the route. See ecosystems by altitude.
Protecting the Forest
The rhododendron forests are part of the Annapurna Conservation Area, and they face pressures from firewood collection, grazing and trail erosion. As a trekker, you can help by staying on the trail, not picking flowers or breaking branches, carrying out all your rubbish, and choosing lodges that use alternatives to firewood where possible. Avoid buying products made from protected plants. See responsible trekking on Mardi Himal and leave no trace.
Tips for Enjoying the Forest
- Walk slowly and stop often; the forest rewards patience.
- Start early for the best birdsong and the fewest trekkers.
- Carry binoculars for birds and a camera with a macro option for flowers.
- Keep rain gear handy, especially in spring.
- Wear boots with good grip for roots and mud.
- Ask your guide to point out plants and birds; many know the forest well.
Walk the Rhododendron Forest with Us
The rhododendron forest is a highlight of every Mardi Himal itinerary, but it is best enjoyed at a relaxed pace. The 9-day Mardi Himal Trek from Kathmandu spends a full day walking from Pitam Deurali to Forest Camp and another from Forest Camp to Low Camp, giving you time to enjoy it. The 5-day trek from Pokhara covers the forest at a brisker pace. Contact us to plan a spring trek.